Domaine de la pépière
Loire, France
"Pioneered by the avuncular Marc Ollivier and now run with help from his former apprentices Rémi Branger (from another Muscadet family), Pépière has been a source for organically farmed, single-vineyard and single-cru bottlings since before anyone knew what those were." - Jon Bonné, PUNCH, March 2018
In addition to Marc and Rémi the legendary Muscadet domaine is also run by Gwénaëlle Croix who joined the team in 2010. Their history began in 1985 with Marc Ollivier’s first vintage. In the decades since Pépière has become the standard-bearer for naturally grown Muscadet, a region where historically little consideration was given to chemical-free agriculture, individual terroir expression or the potential ageability of the wines. In 2006 they finished fully converting to organics, though many of the vineyards were farmed organically before that. They introduced biodynamic practices at that time and in 2015 officially joined Biodyvin; the French biodynamic association.
Currently they have 41 hectares of vines, 38 of which are panted to Melon de Bourgogne. 75% of this production is for the “Sur Lie” Bottling, the rest is for single vineyard wines and a bit of red from Cöt (Malbec) and Cabernet Franc. The soils they work are primarily granite and gneiss for the Sur Lie bottling though each single vineyard wine has its’ own unique Terroir such as schist and limestone. Pépière is the only producer in the region without clonal selections in their vineyards, all of their vineyards are massale selected.
Harvests are all by hand (very rare in the region), whole clusters are brought to the winery and pressed quickly in short press cycles. The wine is settled overnight then goes primarily into large concrete vats where it stays until bottling. There is no racking at all so the wines are on full solids their entire lives. Around 1 year for the “Sur Lie” Bottling but often much longer for the single vineyard wines. Fermentations are all with natural yeast, though because of the low PH of the wines malolactic fermentation typically doesn’t occur. 2018 was an exception for this and you can feel the difference in the creaminess of the wines from the warm vintage. A tiny amounts of Sulfur is added towards the end of elevage, but rarely right before bottling. The idea is that you can drink the wines immediately after they have been bottled. These are some of the most age worthy white wines in the world with track records up to 30 years at some of the best value you will find anywhere. Enjoy!
A.O.C Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine
100% Melon de Bourgogne from vineyards primarily based on sandy granite-based soils. This is the benchmark style of the estate: racy, crisp and mineral with a hint of richness.
Clos des Briords
Clos des Briords is located on the hillsides of the river Maine, a tributary of the Loire. The site totals 4.40 hectares and is planted with old massale selections. Only a small part of the oldest vines produce the Clos des Briords bottling. 60+ years old vines on a steep slope. The bedrock is Granite de Château Thébaud, but do not fall within the Château-Thebaud cru designation. This is a step up from the basic Muscadet. More mineral and more complex with stunning freshness and balance.
Gorges
1.67 hectares with 50+ year old vines. Gorges is the only area in the Muscadet featuring basalt soils. The wines have a unique structure compared to the others of the region. Gorges has a linear quality to it. Its deep and long with a saltiness and notes of lemon cream pie.
Château-Thebaud
Pépière owns 14 hectares within the Château-Thebaud cru but only the best grapes go into the Château-Thebaud bottling. They work a range of plots of all ages and sizes, many as small as 20 ares. There is a mix of vine ages here, some as old as 70 years, with many 30-year-old vines as well. Thébaud always needs longer aging on the lees than any of the other cru wines usually at least 3+ years. This wine benefits from decanting and is supple and rich and delicate while at the same time offering power and freshness. A very special wine.
Côt (aka Malbec)
Because reds are not allowed in the Muscadet appeations the Pépière reds are bottles as Vin de Pays. Both are produced on southwest facing hillsides on granite slopes. Destemmed into concrete tanks for 1 week. 4 day post fermentation soak. Only the free run juice is kept for this cuvee. 5 months elevage in stainless steel. This is a Medium bodied, juicy, fresh style of Malbec loaded with earth fresh berries.
Cabernet Franc
Because reds are not allowed in the Muscadet appeations the Pépière reds are bottles as Vin de Pays. Both are produced on southwest facing hillsides on granite slopes. Destemmed into concrete tanks for 1 week. 4 day post fermentation soak. Only the free run juice is kept for this cuvee. 5 months elevage in stainless steel. This is a classic Loire Cabernet Franc with pencil shavings and graphite on the nose, mineral and savoury earth tones on the palate, all wrapped up in a dark fruit, irony, delicate robe.
Retail
Boutique del Vino at Piazza de Nardi
De Luca Fine Wine
Ellement Wine & Spirits
Kenaston Wine Market
Jones & Co. Wine Merchants
Winehouse
