sebastian riffault
Sancerre, Loire, France
Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre is known for intense minerality, crisp texture and bright citrus notes. Sebastien’s Sancerre wines are not quite like this. In fact, they are completely different. So what are they? They are delicious, singular, lithe expressions of the vines he works biodynamically in his small corner of Sancerre. Son of winemaker Etienne Riffault, he began his own label in 2002. The biggest difference between Sebastien and the rest of Sancerre is his belief in biodiversity, biodynamics and natural winemaking. These principals are rare to find in a region where most vines and wines are made with chemicals and manipulation. Sebastien is a bright light of natural winemaking in this region.
He farms 12 hectares biodynamically near Sury-en-Vaux, plowing by horse so the soil is meticulously tilled in the right places. He works with low yields and picks late, when the fruit is quite ripe with high levels of botrytis, sometimes up to 50%. This is a technique usually followed by those interested in producing sweet wine – picking late with botrytis. But Sebastien allows all the wines to ferment to dryness and practices very long elevage, wines are often in barrel for 3 years. The results he produce are stunning, deep and oxidative with incredible energy and lift, bringing both freshness and weight.
Grapes are hand harvested and fermented with natural yeasts primarily in large old barrels. In spite of the crisp, intense acidity, all of the wines undergo complete malolactic fermentation. The wines are aged on their lees and are never chaptalized or acidified. His wines are not filtered or fined. No SO2 is added (except for minimal sulfur added to Les Quarterons at time of bottling). All wines are bottled by gravity.
Each wine comes from a single vineyard named for his Lithuanian wife. As is done in Sancerre, Sebastien Riffault’s wines are made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc.
All of the wines are dry and with the exception of Les Quarterons, they are completely without sulfur. The wines change dramatically from vintage to vintage and we are always thrilled to discover what Sebastien has for us each year. Despite the dark colour of Sebastien’s wines in the glass the wines we have in Manitoba have all been produced without any skin maceration. We urge you to experience this completely unique expression of Sancerre.
2016 Les Quarterons Blanc
From vines aged 30+ years on clay, limestone soils. Grapes are harvested by hand, directly pressed into stainless steel and fermented naturally. Elevage for 2 years. Bottled unfined lightly filtered with 10mg/L of sulfur – a miniscule amount. 2016 Quarterons was harvested with 20% Botrytis. The brightest and most approachable of the line, Quarterons is often harvested with less botrytis and sees a small sulfur addition at bottling. The result is wine that is the perfect introduction to his style. Fresh and elegant while still giving off the wonderful oxidative deepness that we have come to expect in Sebastien’s wines.
2015 Akmenine Blanc
From vines aged 30+ years on clay, limestone soils. Grapes are harvested by hand, directly pressed into large, old barrels and fermented naturally. Elevage for 3 years. Bottled unfined, unfitered and without sulfur. 2016 Akmenine was harvested with 30% Botrytis. Often the richest of his line up, Akmenine matches with high acidity and delicate texture. Heady notes of chamomile, marmalade. This wine is savoury and dark but light and bright at the same time. A truly special experience.
Retail
Ellement Wine & Spirits
Jones & Co. Wine Merchants
Kenaston Wine Market
